MOLAS: UNIQUE ART FORM OF THE KUNA INDIANS
The term "mola" refers to a rectangular, multi-layered,
brightly-colored, hand-stitched panel of cotton cloth worn by Kuna Indian women
and girls on the front and the back of their blouses. The stitch work is best
described as the reverse of conventional appliqué. It is such magnificent
craftsmanship that it is considered one of the most highly developed
contemporary folk art forms. Thirty years ago molas were almost unknown outside
the San Blas Islands, but today they are sought after by collectors all over the
world. Since the blouse requires two panels (front and back), it is a fortunate
collector who finds both panels for his/her collection. A traditional mola panel
measures approximately 16 x 13 inches.
It is believed the mola evolved from a Kuna tradition of body painting, which then turned into cloth painting, and then eventually the brightly colored panels were sewn together. The women's inspiration for new designs come from a variety of sources: local flora and fauna, every day scenes, sports, local legends, and even political and historical events. Some are completely abstract, while the origin of others remains a mystery.
The Kuna Indians believe all things contain a spirit, and so also must the mola. Certain designs have been handed down from mother to daughter, but they are always unique, since they are never repeated exactly. Girls as young as 5 years old are being taught to sew. Blouse panels can be similar in front and back, but will always vary in placement of shapes and colors.
KUNA INDIANS
The Kuna Indians live on 52 of
the 365 islands to the north of Panama in the San Blas Archipelago also known as
Kuna Yala. They are an autonomous, indigenous group totaling 40,000 people. The
women wear their mola-blouses with pride, and decorate their arms and legs with
brightly colored stringed beads known as "wini", their noses with gold
rings, and their heads with red and yellow scarves.
Selling their molas to tourists and collectors has contributed to the economic independence and autonomy of the women who make them. It is a significant source of income which also helps to preserve their culture.
At present newer molas and those sewn for tourists are made with normal appliqué methods. On a couple of small islands the women sew "molitas" to sell. The molita (small mola) is a reverse appliqué just like the larger ones, and is often sewn with just as much skill. Molitas usually measure 7 x 7 inches.